In a new Leelanau Ticker series, wilderness guide Julie Den Uyl is sharing an in-the-moment, insider’s view of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (SBDNL), to inform the nature-curious and locals whose “backyard” is made up of the National Lakeshore’s 71,199 acres.

Den Uyl is a former SBDNL park ranger and now — following an arduous application process and permitting by the National Park Service — she founded Sleeping Bear Tour Co. to lead adventures on the park’s less-traveled trails and even into some of its unaltered wilderness. She explains, “I have created a life revolving around these landscapes...designing wilderness to be my ‘office.’”

As a guide and outdoor educator her job is to notice the subtle and spectacular natural occurrences varied landscapes of the Sleeping Bear Dunes. For Den Uyl, the most important factor of these wild lands: “It’s a landscape where humans are visitors and do not remain,” she says.

Stay tuned for Den Uyl's field notes this summer, and here’s what's happening right now:

What’s out & about? Peninsula landscapes have quickly transformed from sepia hues of winter to lush tones of spring green. Nature’s transformational pace during the month of May has been expeditious to say the least. Abundant sunshine and very warm temperatures unfurled the landscapes quickly — twice daily perspectives were necessary to keep up with the metamorphosis.

Animals appear to be hurried in their spring activities as if they are behind in their nest, lodge, or mating rituals. Piping plover antics appeared slow, and a bear was viewed in the cooling Platte River flow.

What’s growing? Yellow hues of willows and marsh marigolds quickly thrust into bloom during the warming temperatures of late. Wildflowers sped up appearances as the trilliums rapidly emerged and continue to display. Slipper orchids, dutchman’s breeches, and jack-in-the-pulpit will be appearing within the coming days. The smell of lilacs fill the air. Mushrooms are bursting forth from underground. Last year’s morel searchers were flustered in locating the illusive specimen. Possibly last year’s deficiency is this year’s bounty?

Mushrooms, berries, and other foraging treasures found on federally protected lands come with harvesting stipulation. Before heading out with basket in hand, keep in mind the daily allowance of any one fruit, nut, berry, or delicacy, such as rose hips or asparagus, is commonly restricted to one gallon or one bushel limitation.

Anything buzzing? Tree buds have rapidly transformed into full foliage and once again shade emerges within the hardwood-forested understory. Berries and fruit blossoms continue to exhibit in full display, attracting important pollinators such as bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. With approximately 450 bee species in Michigan the Leelanau Peninsula plays an important role in bee habitat.

Who’s back? The beloved Great Lakes Piping Plovers have returned! Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers the Great Lakes Piping Plover the wide, uninhabited, white sandy beaches they seek and is a primary breeding area for this federally protected endangered species. A multitude of federal, state, and local agencies, Great Lakes tribes, universities, and individuals coordinate efforts in Great Lakes Piping Plover protection.

Mating pairs and nests are aligning daily. Greatlakespipingplover.org provides breed progression updates throughout the summer and suggests action you can take to assist in their recovery. In stewardship, please heed signage regarding pets on the lakeshore. Playful animals disrupt the piping plovers normal activity and will lead to nesting failure.

Trail perspective: Activating your own personal observational skills increases outdoor enjoyment and initiates intrigue. “Listen” to the cues provided by your surroundings. Footprints in the sand, odors carried by the winds, or a change of character in a favorite pet, all offer you a wealth of information. Recognize and accept these attributes; leading you to increased awareness and encounters.

Being in the wild: Discovery is a personal journey. Revelations occur as you view and integrate within the spectacle of nature. Align your thoughts with what’s immediately occurring in the dune landscapes. Everywhere you go, be in tune with the aura you project, and how this may be received by the natural world. Your presence is an aspect of the landscape and in turn an altering factor. Movements matter. Wildlife is attentive to your occupation. Portray a calming reflection. Inhabitants view speed in the natural world as a danger. Sit quietly in the sand or settled on a fallen tree. You will be rewarded with a newly formed connection to the rhythm of the natural world. Welcome.

Pictured: Maritime Beach, 05/16/2022 courtesy Sleeping Bear Tour Co. 

Editors Note: a previous version of this story indicated that the Sleeping Bear Dunes is the third largest wilderness area east of the Mississippi; it is the tenth.