Happy Birthday, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Fifty years ago today, the United States Congress established the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (SBDNL), adding it to our expanding National Park System. Because of this, we all can freely enjoy the SBDNL’s public and protected beaches, dunes, islands, forests, maritime structures and historic farmsteads — into perpetuity.

Says Scott Tucker, superintendent of the Lakeshore, “These ventures would not have been possible without the passion and commitment from innumerable employees and partners throughout the years, not to mention the sacrifices of former landowners within the current boundaries of the park.”

He adds, “The challenging task of preserving and protecting the Lakeshore’s resources could not be done without the dedication, creativity, and a little sweat from the countless staff, volunteers and visitors.”

To celebrate the big 5-0, the Leelanau Ticker went to a handful of those closest to the park to get the inside scoop on the Sleeping Bear Dunes' most spectacular spots, its impact on the region, and its continuing story.

Steve Yancho, Retired Chief Ranger and Chief of Natural Resources
Connection to SBDNL: Starting February 1978, I was Patrol Ranger at the Platte River Ranger Station. I spent three years working as the Lead Ranger on South Manitou Island, several years as a Resource Management Specialist, Chief Ranger and retired as Chief of Natural Resources on December 31, 2011. Through the years, I managed specific programs such as wildland fire, lands and community interface, site restoration, exotic species management, threatened and endangered species management, research programs, vegetation and wildlife management, water quality, and countless special assignments.
SBDNL’s significant impact: Preservation of many miles of pristine Lake Michigan shoreline and 70,000+ acres of uplands, lakes and streams that would otherwise have been lost to development and closed to public access.
Most remarkable spot in the park: South Manitou Island is an unknown gem that many lifelong Leelanau County residents have never visited. The lack of deer on the island allows a person to experience a forest like none found on the mainland or even North Manitou Island. The spring wildflowers are amazing! Northern White Cedar have boughs right down to the ground, and Canada Yew grow lush and thick. The island also has a rich history of early regional settlement.
Meaningful experience: Proposing to my wife at one of my special spots. Another I feel compelled to share is that the Lakeshore is made up of approximately 1,800 tracts of land that had previously been privately owned. These lands were dearly loved by the previous owners, and when I started working here, the feelings were still very raw of people having been displaced for a new Lakeshore. I will always remember as a new Ranger to the area, driving down M-22 in the park vehicle and waving to an elderly woman walking along the road, she lifted her hand, to what I thought would be a wave, but she instead presented me with a…hand gesture. Years later, I was approached by a well-known local from Leelanau County who told me he thought he would never say this, but he was glad to say that the National Lakeshore had been established. Although there are still some who harbor hard feelings, it would seem that the vast majority of local residents see the value of the Lakeshore.

Ashlea Walter, TC City Commissioner, Artist
Connection to SBDNL: I had the honor of living in Glen Arbor and Empire for ten years. I often sought refuge and inspiration in the dunes, forests, lakes and rivers of this very special place. Sometimes I took the dynamic seasons and natural beauty for granted and after several years in Traverse City, I returned to this place in a body of abstract landscape paintings I have created. The miles and hours in all seasons I spent swimming, exploring trails, hunting for morels, looking for my favorite spring wildflowers, riding trails, and canoeing down the Crystal River also inspired me to create an Up North Alphabet, a children's book of ABCs that features northern Michigan's natural environment.
SBDNL’s significant impact: The creation of the National Lakeshore for enjoyment for all people has been the catalyst for greater understanding and appreciation for these natural spaces and how important it is to protect them. I see this in the strength of the Leelanau Conservancy and the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy and the work that they've been able to do because of this understanding.
Best memory: Many years ago, I had a group of women I used to regularly swim with at North Bar Lake at sunrise. It was a very magical time of day to be at the Lakeshore. We called ourselves the North Bar Lake Swim Club!

Tom Mountz, Longtime SBDNL Employee
Connection to SBDNL: Retired two years ago as a Park Service Maintenance Worker.
SBDNL’s significant impact: Public lands access for almost every desire and capability. 
Most remarkable spot in the park: The terrain and trees on the north end of South Manitou. Shhhh!
Best memory: Many cookouts on Lake Michigan beaches. 
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… prioritize protecting the natural resources. 

Mike Rivard, President of the Sleeping Bear Gateways Council
Connection to SBDNL: My wife and I are in-holders in the Lakeshore. We are fortunate in that we are fee owners of a property on Sleeping Bear Bay with NPS land surrounding our property.
Most remarkable spot in the park: Port Oneida.
Best memory: Discovering the social trail network in the footprint of the Lakeshore — unofficial trails that are not mapped or maintained by the NPS. There are literally hundreds throughout the Lakeshore and they tend to be pretty private, no long lines of other visitors.
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… balance the demand from residents and visitors with the capacity of the natural resources to provide high quality recreational and aesthetic opportunities, while also preserving and enhancing the desirable qualities and livability of our gateway communities.

Katy & Matt Wiesen, Owners of Crystal River Outfitters Recreational District  
Connection to SBDNL: Matt and I own the Crystal River Outfitters Recreational District which lies in the heart of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. We offer kayak trips on the Crystal River and bike rentals for use on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail and other park areas.
SBDNL’s significant impact: The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail has had a great impact on this area for biking and area merchants. We are seeing all ages getting back on bikes again. It has become safe to ride in the area as much of the time on the trail is spent off the main roads.
Most remarkable spot in the park: Driving North on M-109 and reaching the crest just past the D.H. Day Barn. The view of North and South Manitou Island on a clear day is absolutely stunning.
Best memory: Watching my daughter jump in the Crystal River while on a hike on a sunny October Sunday. 
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… hold a special place in visitor's hearts and visiting remain an annual tradition.

Susan Pocklington, Executive Director, Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear 
Connection to SBDNL: I am the Executive Director of Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear, a National Park partner since 1998, helping to preserve and interpret its historic structures, heritage and landscapes.
SBDNL’s significant impact: Protecting the resources in perpetuity so that the public has access to recreate in, and learn from, not only the pristine and unique natural features, but the incredible legacy of late 1800s and early 1900s history here, including Port Oneida, the largest intact agricultural community in the nation.
Most remarkable spot in the park: High Ridge trail in Port Oneida overlooking the historic Thoreson farm and Lake Michigan.
Best memory: There are so many! But opening the doors to the restored Charles and Hattie Olsen farm in Port Oneida for the first time to the public and experiencing their emotional reactions after seeing it deteriorate for years, was very moving.

Emily Sunblade, Interpretation Education Technician, SBDNL
Connection to SBDNL: Responsible for SBDNL formal education programming.
SBDNL’s significant impact: I’m a little biased here, but many of our nearby schools have built fieldtrips to Sleeping Bear Dunes into their curriculum. It’s great to know that kids look forward to visiting, hiking, snowshoeing, canoeing, etc. at Sleeping Bear Dunes.
Best memory: Visiting Platte Point as a child — we lost our car keys in the sand. When we returned to search for the keys with our dog Maple, a beagle, she found them right away!
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… be a place for people to connect — with themselves, each other, the past, and the natural world.

Kerry Kelly, Volunteer, Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes
Connection to the SBDNL: I manage the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail and am the project manager for building the new Kettles Trail in the Bow Lakes area of the park. I also blacksmith in Glen Haven one or two days a week. We make metal articles for the historic part of the park and museums as well as metal articles which we give away to park visitors throughout the season.
Most remarkable spot in the park: I’ve been volunteering at the park for over 15 years and I thought I knew everything there is to know about it. But every year I learn something new or see something very cool that I had never seen before. For example, this fall, I was introduced to a couple of the most perfect geological kettles in an area of the park. I will also say that one of the most awe-inspiring places is to hike or snowshoe up Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive to the Lake Michigan Overlook (Stop #9) in the winter, when nobody is there!
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always... provide a place for people of all abilities and backgrounds to experience and explore nature.

Rob Karner, Watershed Biologist, Glen Lake Association
Connection to SBDNL: As watershed biologist for the Glen Lake Association, I am in regular contact with SBDNL staff as we partner with water quality initiatives. 
SBDNL’s significant impact: The restoration of the natural shoreline on Little Glen Lake. This is by far the best gift the SBDNL could have given to protect the water quality of Little Glen.
Most remarkable spot in the park: Sleeping Bear Point. I look at it every day and have sailed around it for four decades.
Best memory: Having the entire park be my outdoor classroom for teaching high school biology [at the Leelanau School] for 38 years. We were never disappointed on any or all of the thousand field trips I had with my students.
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… continue to be protected and preserved for future generations along with allowing the natural processes and evolution of the biota and landscapes to continue.

Scott Tucker, Superintendent, SBDNL
Connection to SBDNL: Superintendent of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore 2016 to present.
SBDNL’s significant impact: I think one of the most significant impacts on the region was the community outreach done by Deputy Superintendent Tom Ulrich during the late 2000’s. He hosted over 100 public meetings resulting in increased community trust, the 2009 General Management Plan and the 2014 Wilderness Designation. Tom’s work was pivotal for the transition of park opposition to support in the region. 
Most remarkable spot in the park: Sleeping Bear Point! To stand on the edge of the dune plateau with your feet in Lake Michigan is a spot my family can explore on the busiest of summer days and still not see a single person.
Best memory: The first time my family hiked the Dune Trail from the Dune Climb to Lake Michigan. I think I carried my 5-year-old daughter in a fireman’s carry for the last mile back.
I hope the Sleeping Bear Dunes will always… provide family memories and inspiration. 

Find more ways to celebrate, paths to explore the shore, be a Junior Ranger, visit the park virtually, and discover the Anishinaabek connection to the Sleeping Bear Dunes at the SBDNL’s 50th Anniversary hub. 

Photo: Some of the most spectacular lake views, picnic spots and dunescapes are accessible from Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive (pictured above, photo credit: AJ Yorio).

SBDNL Superintendent Scott Tucker tells the Leelanau Ticker though the drive has been closed due to construction, it is safely opened today, October 21 for the SBDNL 50th anniversary. (Tomorrow it closes again for resumed construction.)

Editor's Note: A previous version of this article had Steve Yancho's name misspelled. We regret the error.